The area of Matera has been settled since the Palaeolithic. The city was allegedly founded by the Romans in the 3rd century BC.
"Matera has gained international fame for its ancient town, the "Sassi di Matera". The Sassi originated in a prehistoric troglodyte settlement, and these dwellings are thought to be among the first ever human settlements in what is now Italy.
The Sassi are habitations dug into the calcareous rock itself, which is characteristic of Basilicata and Apulia. Many of them are really little more than caverns, and in some parts of the Sassi a street lies on top of another group of dwellings. The ancient town grew up on one slope of the rocky ravine created by a river that is now a small stream, and this ravine is known locally as "la Gravina".
In the 1950s, the government of Italy used force to relocate most of the population of the Sassi to areas of the developing modern city."
"Until the late 1980s the Sassi was considered an area of poverty, since its dwellings were, and in most cases still are, uninhabitable. The present local administration, however, has become more tourism-oriented, and it has promoted the regeneration of the Sassi with the aid of the Italian government, UNESCO, and Hollywood. Today there are many thriving businesses, pubs, and hotels."
Welcome to our hotel - Le Grotte della Civita.
Located in the most ancient Sassi area, facing the gorge, the hotel has conserved the original caves that were, since the Bronze age used for human habitation by farmers and shepherds and their families and animals, as churches and by monastic communities. Reception (above) is in a cave of its own.
It was a church.
From even further back. The floor was extremely uneven - smooth but with big dips. We guests were stumbling up and down but the staff, who were used to it, carried their loaded trays with ease.
Welcome to our cave. Big enough for a family of six plus animals, or two travellers with four bags.
Most of the light is from candles which burn for 72 hours before needing to be replaced. But there is power for both safety reasons and to placate 21st century media users.
Complimentary fruit, water and wine. The temperature is between 20 and 22 degrees thanks to underfloor heating installed during the process of adding plumbing and power, steps and storage spaces.
Our key on the left, best left at reception unless you have a very large bag.
The fridge is in the cupboard above the desk. There is an intercom phone to reception.
The bathroom is down five candle lit steps. I needed to be very careful.
All mod cons but no toilet roll holder. Waste goes in the paper bag in the ceramic bin.
An electric light each side of the basin-bench, as well as candles. It is pretty dark this deep in the rock. Toilet paper tied with string. Hand made pats of olive oil soap. Herbal shampoo in refillable glass bottles. No single-use plastic anywhere.
The hairdryer in a calico bag.
Looking down from our level to the level below which is reception and the dining room. Steps everywhere.
From the little garden on our level, looking across the gorge, you can see many more caves on the other side. One is now a wayside cafe for hikers.
The old town of Metera has a lovely duomo, recently restored, probably paid for by Mel Gibson's production company.
The Conservatory of Music, and yes, there is a dip in the roof and one tower leans. But it has been that way for hundreds of years apparently.
The G7 met in Matera while we were there - lots of road closures and helicopters and people in suits and heels playing tourist. We were too busy picking our way up and down rock streets that we didn't notice.
Next - Costiere Amalfitani.
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