In response to those who have asked where we are staying in Rome and how we find the apartments we book, here is a brief run-down.
Our apartment is 23 via degli Ibernesi, in the I Monti district of Rome.
Here is the VRBO booking link for more details and images. The owner, Valentino is very reliable.
Given the quality and location of this apartment, it is exceptionally good value and worthy of consideration by anyone wanting to be in the very centre of the ancient city, within walking distance of absolutely everything you would want to see.
From our front door, looking down via Ibernesi, across piazza del Grillo (Grasshopper square) to the pedestrian walkway along the ancient ruins.
The Fori Imperiali is at the bottom of our street. If we had turned left in piazza del Grillo, we would have been facing the Colosseum.
Two doors up from our apartment in via Ibernesi, in the 17th C building next to ours, is this georgeous small hotel. Inside and at the rear, is an ancient cryptoporticus, built in the period between 50 BC and 14 AD on the border of the Imperial Fora.
The hotel uses this ancient gallery for social functions in the summer. It was rediscovered and excavated in 1887. It is two galleries covered by barrel vaults and separated by a colonnade.
Our apartment is located in an excellently restored 17th C building over four floors with a lovely central courtyard.
When we search for an apartment anywhere in Europe, we have developed a list of basic requirements to search for.
- For us, we only consider an apartment if it is in the very centre of the city or town, to aid walking and minimise the need for transport. So we need to know exactly where we want to be located. Google Maps is great.
- The apartment building must have a lift.
- The apartment must have wifi.
- It must have either a seperate bedroom or if a studio, be larger than 35 square metres.
- It must also have a seperate stand-up shower, not a shower over or in the bath.
Once all of those requirements are met, we find that we don't need to specify much more. Most apartments these days have been renovated, so the kitchens and bathrooms are good and include a washing machine. Watch out for sofa beds if they are to be used by two adults - few are satisfactory. Unless you speak the language there is not a lot to attract you to local television and these days, with wifi, a phone is not required.
We find that a price between 90 and 110 euros per night is currently buying this level of accommodation in cities like Rome, Paris, Madrid, Nice, Bordeaux, Barcelona, Florence, Palermo. A little less in the non-capital cities and towns. A little more on the coast with water views.
With Paul's nose for good food, we found this typical local restaurant and have eaten there every night, because it is so good.
You need to wait for a table every night. The tourists come early from about 6pm but the locals eat much later, 8.30 onwards. The clientele is substantially local. The service is appalling but the food is fresher than fresh and there is not a french fry or hamburger bun in sight.
There is however, plenty of soft drink, beer on tap and good local wine by the carafe (7 euros per litre) to go with the simple food of the region. Ripe tomato salad with rucola, dressed only with salt and fresh olive oil. Roman lettuce and rucola dressed only with fresh olive oil, fresh tomato pulp and salt. Just cooked, melt in the mouth artichokes. Spaghetti vongole (clams). Gnocchi cozze (mussels). A plate of fried fish (deboned), calamari and prawns to kill for. So good we ordered a second.
Devouring my spaghetti con aglio, olio, alici, peperoncino e pane grattato (with garlic, oil, anchovy, chilli and breadcrumbs). Good beyond description.
Tonight Paul will order the trippa alla romano (tripe in tomato sauce) and I will have the gnocchi - featherlight pillows of potato dumplings.
Tomorrow - off to Malta.
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